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01-10-2025 | 01:03 AM

#3957

G-rem

Tech Fanatic

iTrader: (2)

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 825

From: Belgium

Quote:

Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer

I've run a TT-02 type S in VTA. It was a decent car and I was competitive against the average club racers.

If I was going to buy a new TT-02 for VTA in 2025, I would choose the SRX kit. That kit out of the box has MOST of the things I would want in a race vehicle such as...
- adjustable camber
- adjustable front/rear-toe
- high speed gear set (allows aftermarket spur gears)
- Tamiya 419 suspension (more durable than the basic TT-02 suspension)
- front spool/rear oil filled diff
- clamping wheel hex adapters

Here are some negatives with all the TT-02 kits including the SRX
- The stock ride height is tall when using VTA tires. Consider buying shorter dampers and/or shorter springs. I personally like Yeah racing.
- Plastic steering rack/components. Tamiya offers aluminum steering components/kits which work well, but there are plenty of aftermarket options available.
- No kit comes stock with down stop/droop adjustments. Consider buying an aftermarket solution. (You can also use Tamiya 54638 with the TT-02 Type S suspension - requires parts 54636 (front) & 54967 (rear-adjustable toe) or 54634 (front & rear-fixed toe)
- No kit comes with a fully adjustable motor mount. Consider buying an aftermarket mount to achieve appropriate gearing for 25.5/VTA motors (gear ratio will depend on local track size)
- No kit comes with sway/roll bars. There are aftermarket and DIY solutions available.
- All kits come with plastic shock towers/damper stays. Tamiya offers carbon fiber towers as well as aftermarket companies. The S/SR/SRX kits come stock with FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic) towers.

The TT-02 kits have been a fairly durable race vehicle for me. But be mindful when removing/tightening screws to not strip the plastic on the lower deck/chassis. This is especially important when tightening down the motor/spur cover. Thankfully replacement chassis are inexpensive, although I would use the hard chassis Tamiya 54926 for racing (This chassis comes with the SRX kit). The only issue I've seen with anyone having trouble with an SRX kit was a fellow racer who was breaking his Double Cardan Joint axles and spool cups. I have not experienced any issues with Tamiya DCJs on the cars I've raced. I would however recommend having Tamiya 42221 & 22064 as spare parts if racing a TT-02 Type SRX.

I should mention that before buying a Tamiya TT-02 kit, make sure that the kit is legal for the class you intend to race in now or in the future. Some Tamiya Championship (TCS) classes do not allow the TT-02 Type S kits - such as the Tamiya (TCS) GT PRO Spec Porsche/ Ford/Mercedes/Toyota class. You can find the 2025 TCS rules at the following link...

https://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules/

I highly recommend anyone racing a Tamiya kit to check out the following website...

https://www.thercracer.com/

Very insightful tips & advices here ! The RC-racer website is indeed a plentyful place where to find all kind of info.

I personally run with a TT-02 SRX full options (Tamiya, except for the FR & RR shock towers (from PSM, to allow using SSBB+ Tamiya shock dampers) and the adjustable motormount (YR)), toghether with a 21.5t Reedy motor and a tad of turbo timing just to keep up with the local guys using 13.5t combo. I drive it on black carpet for the moment.

The car is insanely simple and allow me to drive 15+ min with one battery (in order to improve my consistency over long runs). To cope with the lack of droop setting options (because SRX suspension does not allow to use #54638 with the rear toe block), I've simply put some o-rings into the damper body, so that I have a kind of droop setup. But is does not allow to make adjustements on the go and requires to disassemble the dampers everytime.

What I've experienced the last time I drove the car however, is the fact that the chassis break where the rear toe block is attaching to the chassis :

I did not have a huge crash but I suspect the constraints being applied there made the fixing holes split and the rear suspension fell apart. I'm thinking either of using the lower part of the front bumper holder (B8) at the rear to offer some kind of additional support there, or (more likely) design a small carbon plate to fix on the existing 3 holes at the bottom of the chassis and long enough to support the bottom of the MB42 part.

What do you think of that ? Did anybody experienced this kind of issue ?

Regards,
G-rem

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