Originally Posted by
th3v3gas
I'm looking for this info too. I got some results by not removing the resistor and just 'replacing' the switch with a 10k log potentiometer, but it's not 1k at half turn like the manual says. one side of the original button wired to the center potentiometer post, and one side to one of the outer post. I get a lot more movement on one end of the pot than the other, although I still get a full range.
I'm going try bypassing the resistor and using a linear pot, once I get them, on another hacked radio to compare. but I have no idea what I'm doing.
through my meddling, I believe r18 is the correct one to bypass as well. Im using a gt3c. my board says rev:1.6. I'm on 0.6.2 firmware.
Stuff to double check. If I switch from CH3 button to CH3 pot, it will default to throttle trim. Calibrate Ch3 in the calibration menu (Hold full right steering + hold enter). You are only calibrating full left and right for CH3. if you have it wired up right, you'll see the number change when you turn it. Check end points on the desired channel.
Yes, It's resistor R18 on both the GT3B and GT3C. You remove the resistor, and attach a wire to both spots where the resistor was attached, and attach another wire to ground. I used the ground pin where i attached the 4 pin header to update the firmware. You then wire the potentiometers ground to ground, and the other 2 wires to the other 2 pins of the potentiometer. I also clipped the wire going to the ch3 button on the longer plug that runs to the daughterboard that has the handles buttons on it. Not sure if it's necessary. Sorry it's been years since I came and updated this.