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Old 05-04-2024 | 12:46 PM
  #173  
shortcut3d
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Originally Posted by staiguy
  • the hobbywing has a 5 amp bec vs the r1 @ 3 amps. Idk how much of a difference that makes. Both are 6v/7.4v.
  • the hobbywing is SLIGHTLY smaller in footprimt size. Its also lower in height, but the R1 might have a bigger heatsink under it. Its hard to tell with the case design. Weight is nearly identical
  • both have boost/turbo modes. Both need a program box of some kind. R1 wireless adapter is SLIGHTLY cheaper but hobbywing also has a program box thats cheaper.
  • turn limit seems tricky. WITHOUT a fan, the R1 is rated for 13.5 but with a fan it can go as low as 3.5. Hobbywing list just 10.5
  • Hobbywing has built in capacitor with reverse polarity protection. R1 has an external capacitor and can be "upgraded" with a reverse polarity BEC or actually upgraded to a higher rated capacitor. Both look like they come presoldered with 12 awg wire (not 100% sure)
  • Both seem to have data logging. Both seem to have the standard brake/acceleration punch levels, PWM, curves, etc along with non-blinky boost/turbo modes. Also both seem to have preset values for on-road, off road cars.
Hobbywing IMO and GENERALLY seem to be more "plug and play". You wire it up and your ready to go. I like with the R1 you can change the capacitor pack. I have a justock hobbywing (its NOT a fair comparison, i know) and it kinda makes me wonder if I feel a start delay from either a capacitor, amp limit, or something else. I drive it in a class I can't really be competitive in, but differences from my R1 esc to the justock makes me want to buy another R1 stock esc.

My favorite budget esc is orca bp1001. The only downside is that you have to solder it yourself.
Trying out the R1 ESC for a couple new builds for fun and to mix things up. The footprint is deceiving larger than the HW XR10 Pro. The external switch doesn’t help especially if you get the mount.
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