Originally Posted by
BoxxerBoyDrew
I'm also glad my cars are light for Stock Class cars! I was thinking some weight would help, but man it's going to take some getting used to, because I can feel a HUGE difference in the way the car handles when going from an unpainted, no window White Body to one of the bodies I listed previously! The cars carry way more speed into the corners.
When going through the mini-z thread I saw where guys were going with larger pinions and smaller spurs to help with the amount of drag break of the PN 70T. They didn't say or I missed on what circuit board they were running, so I was wondering if the current MR03 boards can handle it? Or is it worth trying? I have a full 64p PN gear set for my ball diff, but only a few 53t spurs for my PN Gear Diff, so I'll have to order some to try if it's worth it. I have a 9/53 combo on my 98mm with the gear diff, and a 10/53 on the 94mm, which would probably be better suited if I switched the pinions, and the PN 70T motors are barely warm with the lip test after 75 hard as I can drive laps. Batts are also cool to the touch as well as the circuit board cover. So I think I'm probably safe, but I would rather ask before burning a car up!
Thanks Again and Drive Fast!
Drew
p.s. I have been running PN KS radials in the rear since I started last year, but I was using Kyosho 30* Low Height slicks on the fronts 99% of the time, but also KS Medium Slicks up front. Though since I don't have a truer I stuck with the Kyosho's as they calmed the steering. I got the KS-Ms to try since we keep the house pretty cool, for Texas standards, at 72* in the Summer and 68* in the Winter. The track sits on a wood floor and our house is Pier and Beam so the floor is pretty cool, and I thought the KS-M's would keep the same traction level throughout the full 75 laps. I have noticed the KS take some time to warm up, so traction changes from start to finish since I've gotten faster and in more in control of my cars. I'm going to try a KS-M Hard front, because other than the traction rolling the KS-M's drive great!
The windows in some bodies can add a lot of weight, and it’s up high, which is why Lexan windows are popular when allowed. You won’t notice added weight at the bottom of the chassis on the speed as much, but you should notice the improved stability. Cut up tungsten welding rods are a cheap way to do that.
Gearing is critical on the Mini96, 9/53 and 10/53 are good on the PN70T and you shouldn’t have a problem with it on the FHSS boards. You can experiment a little with gearing, but don’t think you’ll have to deviate too much from where you are. Keep in mind there are currently two versions of the PN70T motor. The bushing silver can version and the ball bearing version where the can looks like it’s been blacked out. The BB version has a lot more drag brake, more than I like, and I love a lot of drag brake.
The PN tires also come in low profile height, so you don’t need a truer for them either. Keep in mind on the PN tires, the harder compound gives more turning, so you may want to go to soft not firm if you are traction rolling on mediums. I know, it’s counterintuitive.
Keep on testing…