Originally Posted by
2dialed
thanks for the reply. i saw your video and put the ball diff in and it's much easier to drive but feels like it's slower or diffing out in the turns and the nut backing off even though it's pretty tight at the start of a run. u say the awesomatic gear diff offset doesn't work but do u know if the xray or arrowmax gear diff could fit.or maybe a different thrust bearing set up like the slapmaster with no bellvue washers but i can't seem to find the slapmaster one. on the front i went with a 1.5 mm spacer in the front and no spacer in the rear should be more than 5 degree caster and was wondering if i could get more ride height if i remove some droop shims from under the hub. i'm down to 40mm front tires and trying to get 3.5mm ride height in the front . now i.m at 3.2 mm ride height just not sure if u can change ride height with droop shims
Haha, thanks for watching it! I hope it helped!
On the front ride height, I'll measure my fronts and look at my own settings when I'm home and get back to you, I feel like something is missing there...
On the Awesomatix diff, I couldn't get the spacing even left-to-right in order to run a GT12 body. I'm sure it would be just fine in LMP12. Looking at it further, I could make it fit if I were to mill some material away on the rear chassis under the pod to clear the spur, but I wanted a solution that didn't involve too much modification, so I chose the ball diff. If I'm to test a gear diff in the future, I'll definitely go with the AX unit. Fit and finish was absolutely stellar. I will say though, after using the ball diff vs. the spool in GT12, I'm completely sold on the diff. Lap times have dropped, and the drivability is way up.
As for the ball diff, I'm going to put together another video just about building the Eclipse diff, but I'll give you the cliff-notes here:
*I used the U4811 silicone nitride balls. I also used a Xenon 72t spur.
Use a good quality spur by Xenon or RW if possible.
*Clean all parts thoroughly with motor spray or suitable solvent, dry and put on a clean towel.
*Use a high quality diff lube (I used 1up "Pink" lube)
*Spread a VERY thin layer of grease onto the diff rings, then wipe excess away with your finger. This will leave only a very thin film on the ring.
*Drop a small amount of lube into each hole in the diff gear where the balls will go, then install the diff balls. make sure to move each ball around in the pocket so the lube is evenly coated. Wipe any excess lube away with a clean towel. (The key here is to have as little diff lube as possible on the moving parts, this will prevent the diff from slipping excessively.)
*Use a good "Anti-Wear" grease on the thrust assembly. I used 1up "Gold" AW grease for this.
* Use a generous amount on the thrust washers and ball carriage assembly. Coat a thin layer of grease onto each cone washer, then install per instructions.
*If needed, use a fresh 4mm nylock wheel nut as your preload nut.
* Preload the diff in small increments, until there in only .25mm of axle showing past the locknut assembly. This will give you a free-feeling diff with zero slip.
If needed, adjust for more or less preload, but this an excellent starting point. I haven't had much need to preload the diff any further than this.