Originally Posted by
lexusbest
Those 1.5 pistons... Just play what you have. Here the most important is hole size area 2x1.6s/1.7s/1.8s and piston thickness 2.0/2.2. drill to your liking
There is a bit more to those pistons than just the thickness from what i am hearing (the edges of the piston being flat?) . I'll probably give them a try and see how they feel drilled out but curious if they had liked them enough to change over.
Originally Posted by
lexusbest
This works exactly as you said. But if you look to driver setups, you could see many of them using, for example, 22mm droop with 2mm limiters. other one running 22mm droop with 0 limiters. All this means nothing if the droop is still 22mm, so limiters are only modifying piston start and end positions. Just screw or unscrew the shock end for droop settings.
Something to keep in mind assuming similarity with what i am seeing with the YZ4SF2 shocks, that new piston mount point on the shock shaft when you use a limiter shim basically acts like its own limiter in addition to whatever you put inside, and if you don't use an internal limiter I wonder if that mount point may cause issues when it drops into the shock at full extension? Not sure on the last part so don't take that as gospel, but I seem to recall something about that, which makes me wonder if that is why they put like a 0.5mm of shim internal out of the box, at least on the YZ4SF2, from what i recall?
I agree though in general I try to affect drop via the eyelets to a point since that can be a quicker adjustment. I do miss some of what we can do on 1/8 scale with droop screws (and the Tekno 1/10 buggy I think) at times lol.