Originally Posted by
Bry195
the 5-6 amp method does not replace timing and gearing and backing down when you hit the temp limit but those 5-6 amps are a starting point based on testing different motors on different track under different conditions to an average rpm. if the efficiency curves from the original test motors are similar and the thermal capacity are similar then the mechanical work is arbitrary because its assumed. Find a motor with a different curve and you will find a motor that the no load amps will be different.
That's not too different to what I said though.
Originally Posted by
gigaplex
Using a reference no-load current value is only useful if someone else has done the work to figure out an optimal setting for the particular motor you're using, and you're just trying to replicate their setting.
Starting with 5-6A
and tuning from there because you know that it has already been track tested (either with the same motor, or with a similar performing motor) is not that different to just starting with a known good endbell timing value. Personally, I'll use the endbell that the manufacturer set as default as a starting point, but it doesn't really matter where you start, it matters where you end.
The problem is, most advocates of the 6A method just set the motor to 6A and run it like that. The Nick Adams reviews in particular will set every single motor to 6A and compare them at that setting, which heavily favours motors that work better at those timing settings.