Originally Posted by
snowman49
the banjo fitting is hollow, you can rotate it however you like. it will fill and act pneumatically pressured no matter the orientation.
in the FB group im in one or two of the guys love thoseLelasi tuned engines, but the ones they were talking about were small blocks.
check out: Ielasi Tuned USA on FB if you have one.
not a clue on long needle carbs though man sorry.
sucks to hear others are having that issue, hope it was just a bad batch.
i have re-used those washers with good luck, but typically very little to no use at the time.
(did fine on one or two that were used a bit before i had removed them, but if possible i would swap them.)
really hope that engine works out for you so you can actually enjoy your truck.
alright buddy thank you for the info. I figured I was over thinking the banjo orientation. And I’m glad to hear about the washers being reusable. I figured if they were unused, they would be fine to use again after tightening and setting the fuel nipple banjo position. Luckily, novarossi includes two spares so I just reinstalled the new ones, and saved the original washers just in case. In terms of the low speed needle design, it’s not really a flaw, and from what I gather they just tune differently then any other sport engine or even a race grade engine. Most carbs have short low speed needles, that pull completely out of the throttle slide at say 50 percent throttle. The long low speed needle design never actually pulls completely out of the throttle slide, and to make it even more confusing the low speed is apparently responsible for fuel duties almost up to 75% throttle or more, and has a direct impact on the high speed needle setting. From what I gather, I’m supposed to set the low speed first, then barely lean the high speed needle after setting the low. Then after all that I go back and fine tune the idle speed needle to get a steady, consistent idle. Most engines(and the way I always tunes), requires you to set the high speed needle first, dial in the low speed second, then just fine tune your idle screw after all those are set. Basically, your supposed to tune this engine backwards which has been throwing everyone through a loop. Not sure why they would make a pull start/truggy engine with such a backwards, complicated carb design that completely reverses the standard tuning principles, but they did. Everyone on YouTube has made strides though in tuning the low speed first, getting a nice steady(but high as well) idle, then lowering the idle screw a touch, then tuning the high speed beedle(barely since nova likes rich high speed needle settings, almost flush with the high speed housing), and then after setting that they revisit the low speed, since leaning the high will 100% lean your previously set low speed needle, since they are literally always “connected” in the throttle slide. Thanks for the kind words man, i have way more faith this time getting this engine tuned now that I know how I have to tune it. And also, hopefully it doesn’t blow oil out of the head button, I know that was an issue with my previous engine, and this engine seems to have a different head button, and cooling head then the other at first glance. Wish me luck