Oh boy, there's a lot to unpack here. i'm going to go line by line.
Originally Posted by
4Phantom
Man this was my first chassis and I've just had so many issues with it, even after grabbing the aftermarket hopups... Anyone else feel like this? Just gonna list a couple
--> It's REALLY easy to strip the screw threads in the plastic bathtub, thank god it;s only $6 to replace the whole bathtub
So, this is a thing people don't tell "you" enough about. First, put grease on the screws as you put them in. This reduces the torque you need, and by reducing the torque you need, you "feel" when it bottoms out. That stops you from stripping the screws. Also, when you re-install a screw into a Tamiya car, turn it backwards first until it "clicks" so you don't cross-thread.
--> The stock steering system is so bad, it felt terrible to drive until I replaced my entire steering system with the aluminium hopups + changed all the fixed length steering rods to turnbuckles
TT01e's run as euro truck without any trouble, with the stock setup. So... does my TT02. Now, trying to drive the stock shoulder screws in, sucks, unless you've got grease on the threads, so they build sloppy unless you go to real effort to get them assembled properly. I tried throwing dollars at the steering with my TT02b. I.. believe now.. that was not money well spent.
--> I have no idea why but I purchased the Tamiya cvds to use in place of the stock dogbones which kept falling out during races(?) somehow and the cvd pins keep coming loose even though I've tightened the grub as much as I can
What model car do you have? I've never lost a dogbone on a TT02 (normal) car. Or my TT01. The TT02b.. well... there's a lot of BS in that platform. If you want those grub screws to stay in place, some loctite is necessary. Or locking collars. You should also look to make sure your foam or rubber buffers are in your drive cups.
--> The original wheel hexes are so loose and the wheels vibrate way too much, they're much better now that I replaced them with the alu hexes
The stock hexes are dependent on clamping force to face them up.
--> Tamiya's system for mounting the aluminium steering arms is so ridiculous, the mounting grub that holds the post in place can be replaced with just a slightly longer screw that just goes in from the bottom of the chassis, it's much more stable than the mini grub system that tamiya suggests using.
Yup. Yes this is a bit crazy. It's worth it, to keep in mind, that if you make "one part tougher" that stress goes somewhere else.
--> Even after purchasing all the steering upgrades it still locks up a little too much for my liking after going through any kind of corner thats <90 degrees
You need to describe more of what you mean by lock up. Locking up means "stops turning". You'll need to get a bit more into what is actually happening.
--> The smallest bumps seem to make something go wrong and break something in the chassis it feels extremely fragile
That borders on the exact opposite of what the car is designed around.
Throwing parts at cars, rarely solves the problems you think they'll solve. At least "upgrade parts".
So there's a bunch of questions here. First, where are you driving? What surfaces? What have you bought and installed? What did you intend on solving by installing them? Also, what drivetrain are you running?
I'm running a TT02, with bearings. .......... that's it. And a TT02b MS, that has... well more parts than I'd care to admit thrown at it. 13.5brushless isn't being kind to the TT02b. (Fiber shock towers, aluminum rear hubs, Yeah Racing shocks, Aluminum drive shaft, steel drive cups and dogbones, Yeah racing aluminum steering setup, bearings, adjustable camber and toe links..... and i'm sure i'm forgetting things.)