Hey guys, I find all the ??'s interesting and I will try to clarify anything I write in the future as much as possible so it's easier to understand. Writing the "tech" articles can be difficult as experience level as well as different lingo can make things tough to make 100% clear. I'm working on a bunch more but I guess I need to double check through them a bunch more!!!

performula - Remember another thing about temp - It is very easy to get lost. Just the head shape alone will make a huge difference - Example - When I raced for Serpent we ran the old Mega heads that had the circular fins as well as some straight fins on the top of the engine. The opening for the glow plug was also a lot smaller so the temps read around 200F and the engines were good. We recieved the new engines with the new heads and everyone tuned for 200F and the engines were rich, no power with no milage and immediatly everyone said they were terrible. The difference?? The newer heads had a bigger opening around the plug allowing the temp gun to sit 10-15mm closer to the glow plug and the temp range changed about 20-30 degrees. We leaned the new engines out to 230F and they were awesome. That's why it's important when you test a head that will "make your engine run 30 degrees cooler" that you base your engines temp off of the track performance - rich or leaner - for a tank before you adjust the needles. A taller head will always read a lower temp..... As far as metals and performance - it is still best to get optimum performance around 200-230F. Any hotter than that and it's hard for the materials to expand/contract without warping or destorting resulting in a loss of power.....

The change of conrod, while not always needed is a good practice (especially for the al. sleeved motors).