For notes:
Front
KPI- King pin inclination AKA short outer link position in front. 1.5 is mm of shims
SA- Short arm (LA would be long arm)
0S- 0 for Zero Shims S for short link on upper arm
Shock mount position on arm is:Square to outside, 1 hole out from narrowest setting on arm and using inside hole on mount.
Rear
I - inside hole (would be like KPI in the rear) 1.5 is mm of shims
Shock mount with round part to outside, 3rd hole from widest setting on arm (1st hole being widest, 2nd hole 2nd widest), outside hole on mount.
I will add, I am running 5 degrees of front caster and -4 of rear.
Rear toe link I am running on top of the steering arm. 0 shims inside low profile Avid/XRAY ball with ball cup on outside with 1mm shims. This gives about 1mm of rear bump in and I am running 2.25 degrees of rear toe. This makes the car more aggressive middle of the corner. Zero bumpsteer front (although could be a good thing to add). This is achieved by running lower profile Avid/Xray ball and ball cup on the outside of the steering link
For motor mount:
Forward most screw and last 2 screws. Rear most screw on the mount uses the standoff as a nut and PCS brace sandwiched between mount and post. Run most rearward screw on the brace, but run 1/2 turn loose. This allows the chassis to flex more.
For Diffs:
High Position Rear
Low Position Front
Weight placement:
20g on top of PC Brace
10G behind battery
10g behind each arm in front
5G used as spacer on Center mount post/battery spacer and Servo mount as battery spacer.
Awesomatix flat head screw on layshaft to move battery all the way in.
Protek 8200 Battery
Zoo DBX ultra light
BSR Heavy bumper
Titanium Turnbuckles
With R1 Wurks motor, SSL servo (all the way out) ORCA ESC and fan. Car balances perfectly L/R. Comes in at 1350-1352G
Last edited by CristianTabush; 09-23-2019 at 11:02 PM.