The mechanical reading on the end bell almost never matches up with the true digital reading that is averaged across all 3 phases. I use the same SkyRC Analyzer too, I only use the timing reading on the analyzer to help me determine if the gap is properly shimmed between the rotor and the sensor board. The goal is to get all 3 phase readings within 1° of each other, then you know that you have properly set the gap. First I check there is at least 0.1mm gap using a spare spacer. Main reason you don't want the rotor too close is that it can hit the sensor board in a bad crash and damage it. I have seen local racers destroy their sensor board on the very first battery pack on a brand new motor. First thing I ask is if they shimmed their rotor? The answer is always, shim the what? I try to keep the same amount of shims but will swap out a 0.5mm shim with a 0.3mm and 0.2mm shim to give me wiggle room, it can take me up to 8 times of playing around with spacing the shims until I get good reading but it is well worth the hassle because this will not only save your sensor board but will also maximize the efficiency of your motor. Then I focus on setting the timing which is completely arbitrary, I go off the manufacturer's recommended current draw. I run Trinity motors and they recommend setting timing to 5.6A draw to get max power without wasting energy in the form of heat. What that means is that anything above 5.6A won't make the motor go any faster, it will just make it run hotter and draw extra current from the battery with that extra loss in heat. In contrast, Tekin drivers have been recommending 3.2A for their motors, every brand is different and every motor can have different timing readings, which will also change over time as the magnet fades, you'll need to periodically adjust the timing to reset it back to your target current draw, etc..