)" Pull your engine out and adjust clutch nut so that 1 - 2 threads of the crank shaft are visible beyond the nut (assuming you assembled things correctly). Assemble bearings and clutch bell. Start with 2 silver shims and one copper shim. (silver shims are thicker than copper). The shims you add must stay on the screw collar when you tighten down the clutch bell screw, otherwise this will bind the clutch bell.
When installing the clutch end screw, I usually hold the engine with the clutch bell on in one hand pointing the crankshaft down towards the ground and with my other hand I use the allen driver to insert the shaft screw upwards (screw is mounted on the allen driver). This way the shims seem to stay on the collar while you are tightening the shaft screw.
Now spin the clutch bell and verify it freely spins (no drag) and you have 1- 1.5mm of end play. Add/remove shims to acheive this.
(2) with the engine out - verify drive train freely spins by grabbing both rear tires simultaneously and spin them.
(3) Make sure you have the engine idle screw set properly as well as this limits the amount the slide carberator will shut. When you have the engine installed and servos operating, give the car full brakes ( engine not running ). Look into the carb and verify that the carb opening is about 1/16th - 1/8th inch from closed position.
Now maybe you can give us more information after you tried this.
Good luck!"
the last paragraph of #1 i've done repeatedly, and it spins freely but when i screw it in theres no play at all but it still spins fine..............should i or rather does it make any sense to back out the shaft screw??