Originally Posted by
stueys
Hi Roger, can you explain the differences between the +2 plates and the V2 please? I have changed my car to the new bits (rack, steering plates and bellcrank arm) and it is still quite twitchy. Cheers :-)
OK, I'll try.
The V2 steering arms put the ball stud around 0.5mm away from the pivot (longer arm) and about 0.5mm nearer the centre line of the car than kit arms. This should slightly smooth out the steering, I haven't calculated the nominal change in ackerman from this but estimate around a 2 degree change.
The +2 steering arms move the ball stud 2mm closer to the centre line of the car along the original axis relative to the centre of the wheel.This significantly smooths out the steering at the loss of a bit of overall steering, perfect for astroturf. The nominal ackerman difference is approximately 6 degrees by my calculation.
I use the +2 arms almost everywhere.
OK, now the servo horn and bell-crank arm. I have to say I don't get it. For a given rotation of the servo you will get more displacement of the steering draglink for a longer servo arm which results in a a bigger change at the wheel for the same steering input on the transmitter. They then say use the outer hole on the bell crank plate which will reduce this effect but the change in the bell crank arm length verses the servo horn length is very slight (nearly 5:1) so it is hardly noticeable.
Personally I prefer to use the standard bell-crank position along with a kit length servo horn, if I want to reduce twitchiness a bit more then I'll run the outer bell crank hole with the kit length servo horn.
As for locations on the new rack the one you'll want to smooth the steering out most is the rear outer hole.