I sent an email to Trinity, explained that I was running in a 13.5T Super Stock Buggy class and that I bought a Monster Max and was running into temp issues with readings coming off around 200°F and then experiencing fade. I sent my motor into them to inspect and they said the motor was perfectly fine (no damage to the rotor, etc) but they noticed that I was running a Turquoise rotor and recommended that I upgrade to a High Torque Copper rotor and gear up about 4 teeth on my 48P pinion. They also recommended for me to invest in a motor analyzer and set the timing to 5.6A draw. I was nervous that there was something still wrong with the motor so I bought an extra team motor to compare on the track. They explained that the first motor I got had exceptionally low resistance readings (10.5mΩ - 10.6mΩ - 10.7mΩ) and the team motor I bought offered readings of (10.6mΩ - 10.3mΩ - 10.6mΩ) which are within the best 5% of motors they produce. I then set both motors to precisely 5.6A and my lap times were virtually identical with both motors (within a tenth sec/lap fast lap times), the second (newer) motor felt like it had a pinch faster acceleration, but both motors felt to have identical top speed and I no longer experienced any fade with the first motor. I should've trusted Trinity in the first place that there was nothing wrong with the motor.

Here are some pics with both nearly identical motors and nearly identical performance with the same 5.6A draw, yet different Timing, KV and RPM readings:

Motor #1 (the one I sent to Trinity for service)




Motor #2 (5% Team Spec)




There have been other racers at my club having difficulty with their gearing/temps (just like me) and I've helped them break down their motors to shim the space between the magnet of the rotor and the sensor board which is very important to do regardless of the brand of motor you buy. This is one of the services offered when you buy a "Certified Motor" but really any average joe (just like me) can do it. Once I set their timing based on Amp draw, these drivers were amazed at the results... no more guessing and cool temps averaging 140°F coming off the track after 5 min quals without a cooling fan on the motor!

I actually found my lap times to get a pinch faster without the fan, I believe it's because of less weight and less power draw, possibly a warmer motor performing better where maybe there is a magical sweet spot on motor temp, of which I have no idea what temp is ideal, I'm just using the settings that Trinity provided to me after they've spent all the effort in testing their own product, so why reinvent the wheel?

*** UPDATE
A motor analyzer will give you the true timing of the motor, where the endbell timing is just an estimate and rarely close to the true measured timing.

*** Rotor selection is key... talk to the manufacturer and get the right motor for the class you are running, I foolishly bought a touring car motor when I should've bough an off-road buggy motor which I think is a contributing factor to the temp issues I was having.