Originally Posted by PIHGUAM1

OK hope I remember everything here questioned...

Shock are same length, or they were prior to experiencing the drive shaft popping out. Even with the same internal spacers, left side still drooped lower.

Everything is straight, no binding issues.

Camber links on tower are in the same holes.

So even with shocks removed, the left arm droops down more. Without the shocks attached all that stops the arm is the drive shaft collar hitting on the arm. This leads me to think it might be in the hubs or arm not being the same.

And now you guys got me thinking about having to use a longer shaft on one side. So Measured the diff by seeing how far the outdrives stick out from the housing. An wala...there is a 1 mm difference, with the left side (gear side) being shorter.

Then I measured how far the outdrives cup stick out past the bearing and wala...1 mm shorter on the gear side..nearly the same as the drive shaft hangs out.

I even measured each outdrive and they are the same length, so that would not be the issue.

The only difference between the gear side and diff case side is that there is a bushing on the gear side. Though I can not feel any play (slop) in the bushing, I am thinking this is where the difference is at.

So next step will be to get another bushing and measure the thickness of facing that touches the bearing. (Unless someone has a new one laying around they can measure)

Though I do not think it has wore 1 mm since new...who knows, I only raced it maybe ten times.

If it turns out to be the same as new, then two options would be to either by the longer driveshaft, or add 1mm shims on the outdrive shaft to push it out. This will not effect the bearing as the bearing seats on the bevel gear not the bushing.

I just hope this leaves enough shaft to lock into the internal bevel gear.