Yeah, the "metal gear servo" in my AE SC10RS RTR broke within two hours of driving back in the day, because it had plastic gear in it. This happened despite the overly soft servo saver. Of course the replacement gears were only available as a full set. Ridiculous. What's the point of protecting the servo motor if you have to replace the plastic gear every few battery packs? How the hell are you supposed to finish races with something like that? With one plastic gear it could just as well be all plastic gears, because the thing is only as strong as its weakest link.

These days I can get a perfectly working, ACTUALLY metal gear servo from JX or Turnigy for nearly the same price as the replacement gears for that crappy RTR servo. Back then I didn't know about the budget stuff yet so I just got an expensive Savox for it and disabled the servo saver. Zero servo problems with any other servos even without servo savers.

Had I known better beforehand about how bad the original servo was and so forth as well as about reliable budget electronics (I got oversold on my first car purchase, the B5M, and had an inflated impression of what electronics cost), I would've just bought the SC10.2FT instead. Though I'll say the 3300kv stock motor and SC700 ESC have been quite decent and reliable, especially for indoors where the slower top speed isn't a problem. The radio wasn't bad either, though I sold it with a different car. The servo really was the weak link of the car.