I don't think I've ever seen 2 different OEM's make compatible rotors or stators for that matter. There might be some OEM's who rebrand under different labels, but most of those cheap brands aren't gonna be competitive with the modern short stack low resistance designs.
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If you didn't buy a "Certified" motor, then you'll want to invest (or borrow) a motor analyzer. First you want to remove the rotor and check the shim by spinning it on the sensor side bearing, there should be no contact between the sensor and the rotor magnet (this minimizes drag and significantly improves performance), if so then add a 0.2mm spacer... you don't want too big of a gap, otherwise your average timing between each of the 3 timing readings on the analyzer will be too far apart, so long as all 3 timing numbers are within 1°, then you know you've got a properly shimmed motor. Then you want to set your timing based on current draw, I spoke with Trinity and they recommend 5.6A for their motors, doesn't matter what the timing is, every motor will be slightly different, just set it to 5.6A and that's all there is to it!
VERY important to notice that the slightest bump on the endbell will effect your timing, you'll see this when trying to get the proper 5.6A reading, because of this, you will want to often check/reset your timing accordingly and this will assure optimal performance for your Trinity motor.
I have seen other brands of motors at the club in my area will do better at other varying current draws, some as low as only 3A so it's very important to contact each manufacturer of motor you own to find out what they recommend for current draw when setting your timing.
I use this motor analyzer here:
https://www.rcjuice.com/skyrc-brushl...r-checker.html
Good Luck!