Originally Posted by oPAULo

Front camber links are as short as they go already.
Rear camber links I can do.
So raise the outer and lower the inner and shorter for increased side bite?
I've read both ways. I downloaded the AE cheat sheet and it's very misleading on this adjustment....
98% of setup sheets I've seen only use the inner hole on the arm but I'm open to try anything. Anything but the inner hole is for carpet only when looking at setup sheets.

Thanks for the reply! I really hope I can make a noticeable difference.

I've been looking at other platforms. Closely. So many things line up across multiple platforms. Wheelbase. Front kick-up. Front caster angle. Rear toe. Antisquat. Battery placement. Placement of the electronics. Placement of the servo and the layout of the steering rack. There are also a lot of variables that are unknown unless you actually have one and can measure them. These are what makes them different. Chassis thickness and how it flexes is a big one. Hence cutting off the KYO waterfall compared to the AE twisty flex waterfall. AE actually made a running production change because the chassis was so lightweight people were bending the chassis consistently. Side guard stiffness. It goes on and on...

One thing I do take note of is how small and light KYO is on the rear hubs and front carriers compared to others. AE has huge rear hubs and bearings and huge front C blocks and spindle carriers. This is unsprung weight. I've read about KYO guys adding clay to the wheels just to increase unsprung weight for traction. Just like putting weights inside a tractor wheel. Traction. To me this is the missing link. Unsprung weight is not the enemy. Unsprung weight is traction.

Thoughts?