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Old 12-16-2017, 02:13 AM
  #2188  
am
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,842
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Not going to agrue With you, but there is a differnece in ackerman even if the steering trow is the same.. you will see that there is a differnece in how much the Outer Wheel turns compoared to the inner Wheel.


Originally Posted by 30Tooth
Disclaimer - I'm going to be blunt, nothing against you sir.

The TKI3 wasn't better than the TKI4, the TKI4 was a step in the good direction only thing I don't like are the stock pistons being the same front and rear, they shouldn't be because of how the shocks are mounted. Setup skills are scarce amongst pros, not that I'm a setup god but i know a thing or two. That being said, I've spent 30 minutes every day of this week at the track perfecting my setup. And I did perfect it and learned some things.
First, the stock setup is aimed at giving lots of corner entry steering, too much actually and the front loses grip too fast. To tune this use the HT-LR V5 setup I'm going to put on the wiki above this page. Really the biggest difference between the 3 and the 4 is that you can't run 11 degrees of kick up on the 4 stock, period. Second, if runtime is an issue the problem is from your driving or building skills, sorry to say this but here's a tip, if you want to increase runtime use the throttle sparingly. Hold off throttle as much as you can, brake deep into the corners (not before) and power once you finished the corner, not sooner. Will take time to master this technique called trail braking but 100% worth it.



Sir allow me to disagree with you regarding the need to buy TKI3 knuckles. The 17.5* caster blocks are inexpensive and good to have on hand, other than that nothing is really needed maybe 8 hole pistons but definitely not the TKI3 knuckles IMO.



I have both cars and the steering angle isn't different without using tools to measure, only the bump steer because of the kick up change. BTW the bump steer curve is more consistent on the TKI4. I think that's the reason most feel the 3 has better steering when it really doesn't, it's just the the 4 doesn't shine as good as it can.



You already have the pills why not try more kick up on your car? Dot up and in on the A plate



So are you using the stock TKI4 parts yet?

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About the testing I've made during this week, I wanted to see why the TKI3 parts were used. Using my TKI3 as the test mule:
- A spec setup, easy to drive but slow. Why? The front end is numb but the grip balance is good, while having lower grip than the setup I ended using today.
- less kick up. Very good change, the front end had more grip on braking and acceleration transients.
- longer front upper arm so it has the same length as the rear, major change! Everything went bananas, almost no steering into the corner and too much exit.
- orange rear springs, consistent but not better overall.
- HRC D plate bushing, small change.
- 2.5mm front roll bar not good, too stiff.
- 2.3mm rear roll bar with 2.5mm front roll bar, not good.
- 2.3/2.3, meh. (want to try 2.5/2.5).
- 2.3mm front roll bar with 2.5mm rear roll bar (stock), a bit better.
- #2 hole on the rear shock tower, everything better. Tears of joy, champagne for everyone and fireworks. Front grip, rear grip and corner speed was better.
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