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Old 12-11-2017, 06:28 AM
  #11  
JatoTheRipper
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Originally Posted by Tamiyadan View Post
i will actually tell you to stick with the stock shocks, just rebuild them, install new orings and shock oil.

you will be fighting with aftermarket shocks trying to get the geometry and throw to just match stock. usually aftermarket shocks bodies are going to be too short or too long, that will make you start messing around with the shock tower mounts making fabrication after fabrication trying to get it right. on the track you will see zero improvement over the stock yellow CVAs.

Chief complaint of CVA they stick. yup they stick after sitting for a few hours because the o-rings seal against the shaft is tight and this causes Stick-tion as the oil has pushed away and the o-ring gone dry. all you do before a run is Stroke the Shocks a couple of times to re-wet the O-ring and you are good to go. you can try slimeing the shaft it won't matter it will still stick after sitting a while.

otherwise Yellow CVA shocks are just as adjustable as aftermarket, you can change the pistons , and change the oil to adjust dampening. ride height is easy to adjust with the inserts and there are different spring rates available but the shock spring rate is good.

I used to race on Stock CVA shocks. and i have been through the after market shocks on tamiyas and it is a waste of money. if you are attempting to run Larger bore shocks in an effort to jump higher all you will do is Bust the gear cases or A arms jumping higher it is all ABS plastic and not designed for Table top jumps.

Tracks back in the 1980s and late 1980s did not have large triple and doubles and table top jumps. Remember the hotshot is a 1985 release, the super shot came out in 1986 the designs started in 1983-1984.
Good post. Another thing I want to add is that Tamiya CVA shocks don't leak. A lot of aftermarket shocks will unless you spend a lot of money.

On old Tamiyas and re-releases there's no need to update shocks to anything more than CVAs.
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