R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
Old 10-30-2017, 07:02 PM
  #9559  
daktulos
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Originally Posted by ColinH
Thanks,

My apologies, it's 17.5 stock, I'm 99% Sure it's the Evo, and it's got the "unicorn" RaceBerry chassis, with the #6 non-rebuildable dampers.

I forgot there are so many versions... I'm an Awesomatix virgin... lol
Hi,

You may take a look at this setup...the generation of parts are probably closer to your stuff...
http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/awe....520141018.pdf

One thing that is good with this setup is that it seems to use the first generation of aluminum chassis...if I remember well the wheelbase are the same for the Raceberry. For sure you will need to play with flex your car at first sight seems to be more suited for asphalt. But that dosent mean that you wont have fun

Under the arms at first don't bother to grab AT21S (balls are 0.5mm lower) if you don't have them and it may worth to try to shim regular AT21 balls 0.5mm.

Maybe try it as is or as close to that at first to have a feel for the car.

After that you may test a few of these things...

You may want to add some shim under the front and rear hubs (you probably have AM06S hubs) to make the car wider especially on black carpet. Don't go to crazy on that maybe between 0.5mm to 1mm and think to reduce the shimming at the top of the hub to keep the amount of camber gain similar. Don't forget to check if the bumpsteer stay the same at the front and at the back. Maybe a good idea to play with wheel spacer also at the front.

Keep in mind that the shim under the balls of the rear steering arms adjust the rear active toe/bumpsteer or whatever you want to call it. Verify at first that under compression the rear toe dosent change. Adjust the amount of shimming accordingly if you want more or no toe change at all. Even on carpet I generally like about 0.5 more toe in under compression.

With a wheelbase as long as that you may also try to play with the rear wheelbase by reducing rear caster a little bit maybe try 2 long or 0. Don't forget to check the rear active toe after your change.

When looking on older setups (2013-2015) keep in mind also that some people where running different ballcups...some where sitting 0.7mm higher than others. So it may be a good idea to play a little bit with shimming under the top arms if the car roll too much before playing with swaybars...

For the rest don't go crazy on option parts

Other people may chime in if I give you wrong directions or have a few things to make you try.

A picture or two of your car may give us a better idea of the generation of parts you have.

Good luck!
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