Originally Posted by
theclutch
Dude, if you read the post, the objective is for me to get comparative numbers using the same type of test. Sorry if you don't like it or agree. Ideally, one would discharge the batteries at the same exact amp rating as the load found while running the car. The numbers may not mean anything to you, but it does to me especially when the "road test" confirms them.
And as for your last comment, I'm sure I've forgotten more than what you currently think you know.
I've done enough data logging to know a 40 amp cycle is more strenuous than a run in my stock buggy. The point of cycling packs like that is to heat them up to lower IR and increase performance. My packs show .9 to 1.2 mOhms when close to done charging.
It is great that you want to track performance, and ir is a good indication of pack health. I have pushed several batteries "beyond" their limit. So far the Protek 3600mah LiHV batteries have endured my punishment the best.
I have been racing rc cars for 25+ years. My fastest lap with my 17.5 2wd is about .5 second off the fastest mod 2wd lap times at my home track. I am also going to school for mechanical engineering. My 2wd buggy has $1000+ in development parts on it. It was a 4.0 before the 4.0 was available to the public. I still have upgrades that I haven't had time to finish making.
Half a second off a mod car is pretty much what is at the limit of a stock buggy. At least according to the people I talk with about toy cars. One of these people has won the Reedy Race Open class, so I trust what he says.
You could probably use a light bulb bank to increase your discharge capacity. You're smart enough to figure out how many bulbs you need to get the discharge rate to match the discharge rate of your car driving around on track.