I got my car down to about 1650grams, eventhough I run heavy full size servos. I doubt I can get down under 1610grams with low profile servos.
Anyway, the ofna diff lock lube is a very sticky silicone lube that increases bite between the shoe and clutch bell. The shoes last alot longer, and the car feels as snappy as a centax clutch car with a medium soft clutch. The lube also can't escape the inside of the bell, since the centrifugal outward forces push it against the bell at WOT.
You can also keep adding a small amount of lube with a bent thin paper clip wire without any disassembly. The clutch bell also does not get worn as fast because the burnt lube created a sticky layer inside the bell that shields the metal surface a bit, and coats the clutch shoes somewhat. Once the clutch has the right snap, it seems to last for more than a few racedays without having to relube...
I also use the lube in the ntc3 rear diff to coat both sides of the sandpapered diff rings. I also slightly sandpaper and lube the outdrive surface that contact the diff rings: that effectively stops or slows down any diff slipping issues, cooling the diffs and stopping meltdowns...My rear diff has always been very solid, even in big crashes...
Personally, the ntc3 is very dependent on build quality, and the instruction manual tips only teaches racers how to build a very brittle car, probably so they can sell more parts, but if you add just a few things(superwide bumper, ofna lube, niftech titanium or CF driveshaft, Kfactory/diggity design shocktowers, etc,) , the car becomes a tank...
Lastly, the AE ntc3 gearsets were too tall for most racing tracks, causing more clutch slipping. The 19tooth pinion (19t/25t & 54t/48t)from dynotech racing is necessary to compete against the nt1/mtx6, etc, but all of the above is useless without a front spool/lcd drive combo to pull out of corners as fast as possible, and keep up with the others.....