Been racing the Buri now with more racers at our track in Apeldoorn the Netherlands. All racers who try this class are all enthusiastic. We all discusse the various things we try to get faster and `since I don`t read much about the technical side on this very nice class here are our testing conclusions.

Its track and grip related off course.

Driving style;
The former nitro 8scale racers were getting faster laptimes in regard to our former 10scale electric racers because of the difference in driving style.
So I coached one driver on the stand when to apply throttle and when not.
This racer became much faster in a short while and more important. had lots of fun. So this is important, Nitro 8 scale driving style makes quicker lap times. (brake before the turn and throttle on beginning the turn all the way out)

Weight distribution on the Buri car,
Its seems that this is not that important on this chassis in regards of lap times. I tend to always want even weight distribution so to get straight acceleration when starting from a standstill. So the best, in my opinion, is the 2x2S lipo radio plate with the esc on the side.

Batts.
When using the same kV motor the 2x2S lipo option is approx. 0,5S faster a lap on our Track. In comparison with the 4S lipo block/brick.

Body,
Used , PF 909,R15B,R18,R19 Blitz 040,035,
The R18 is very good with much steering so is the Blitz 040. The 909 is very liked because this body is very calm and fast to drive. I like the 040 very much because it gets the fastest lap times for me. Body placement is very important and moving it forward or back is needed and has big changes. More than on my nitrocar.
For bumps we use more forward rake, this is more angle although the back can not be higher/exceed the rule limit we use from the nitroclass.

Motor,
Tried motors sensored en unsensored from 1750 to 3200kV. I like the high speeds with the higher kV motors but its difficult to have lower temps on the electronics so beware. Had my lipo cuttoff higher adjusted which killed my total driving time. So in general; 1900kV will give lower temps and more drive time. Heats of 6min are good. Sensored makes a difference with starting a heat.

Timing,
Higher temps comes with rollout and timing, so beware and temp your esc and motor. Also temp your batts.
Some have destroyed their batts because of this. Lower kV and longer heats will dimish the timing and rollout and this is good because it will safe your electronics is the general consensus.

Rules,
We have adopted the general rules from this class with the 1950kV motor limit(corrally motor).

Chassis,
We have Corrally also driving on our track and we will see the Easy 8 soon from Shepherd.
We welcome these chassis because this is good for the class. The Corrally seem to do well also.

ESC,
The Toro 150A combo seems to be very fast. The HW combo is very driveable and both are fast.
I like the temps log the HW provide with the Wi-Fi module , Toro has similar I'm told with their laptop program.
Some more esc have been tried and all seem to be good.

Tires, rule 35/32 shore like the nitro`s
Matrix is very liked by the majority although I race Ennetti and like them very much. Laptimes are the same.
Other brands are also used and good. We tend to want to use one brand in the rules for our track to have uniformity and we'll discusse this for next year. Important to have pinions ready to adjust when the tires get smaller. This to keep temps in control. The car seems to like smaller tires though.

Hope this information is helpful and have fun racing this remarkable class.