The best thing you can do for your lipos is to simply use them. Don't store them without a storage charge on them, don't over discharge them (don't run to your ESC's cut-off), etc. Unless you're hyper-serious about stock racing, you don't need to get into the mechanics of squeezing every little drop out of your batteries. Just charge at 1C - 5C and don't worry about cycling/discharging.

I run stock and charge at 2C (as opposed to 1C) just for the sake of time. I could get away with more, but it's just not a factor for me. My motor is plenty fast/punchy without playing games with my batteries, and since I'm not putting down 15 - 20 perfect laps to begin with, my batteries just aren't a factor. Seriously - one crappy lap erases all the battery voodoo yoo doo in the pits. If I was running perfect races every time and losing by a few seconds to someone who was cooking his batteries, I'd reconsider, but only after every other possible advantage had been explored (motor, totally free drivetrain, bearings in tip-top shape, blah blah blah).

I only run for 15 minutes or so, which means I don't even need to worry about putting a precise storage charge on them unless I'm not going to use them for a couple weeks. In other words, it's rare for me to pull more than half the capacity out on a practice run or race.

Good internal resistance is mid- to low single digits. Don't even sweat the IR until you're in the high teens, keeping in mind that a "cold" (unused) pack will have a higher IR, and that the quality of your connections when measuring IR is crucial. Also important is that the cells are close to each other (in terms of IR).

And of course always balance charge... because why not.