Originally Posted by
jason07
I don't understand why people are complaining. Reaming arms has been part of this hobby for a long time. Is it hard to ream one end flip it over and ream the other? If the hinge pin won't slide through smooth, I suppose you can complain but if it slides through then what is the problem?
Its most likely due to comparison to other kits that you don't have to do this too. The explaination though about it being more durable and hence you may need to ream I am fine with. If its not mentioned in the manual already, maybe that is something worth stating to have on hand when doing assembly for optimal results.
Originally Posted by
greener74
I've reamed many arms over the past 30 years. This was the first time I found an arm that was unreamable. my reamer wouldn't touch it. But the file worked great. I should have sent you my arms and my reamer and have you go at it. I spent an hour on one arm and got nowhere. It was like trying to saw a car tire in half with a stick. I even took the reamer bit out and stuck it in my drill. Then I froze the arm to make it harder in hopes of being able to get it to cut. Its a brand new Hudy reamer. The chainsaw file worked in a matter of seconds. Just trying to give people a heads up so when they build the kit they know how to get it right. And the problem is, the pin wont slide through. When the mold cools the two ends of the arm angle in toward the center and makes the holes offset, so its not a straight shot through the arm.
At least on the EB48.2 and the current SCT410.3 that has been my experience is that I can't get a reamer on its own to get it smooth. Even did the same thing putting the reamer bit in to a drill but no go.
I think though just stating that would be a great tip to have in the manual and state the benefits too of the design as I think in all the time I ran a variety of tekno vehicles,I think I broke 1 set of a-arms. (now watch I jinx myself lol)