Ane easier way to build shocks consistently air free is to copy the off-road method and fill them through the bottom.

Well, not exactly fill them, but try to evacuate the last air bubbles that way.

This is because when you put the diaphragm on and then screw the top cap on the diaphragm can A) trap air underneath - I set it on a large positive meniscus of oil above the shock body, starting at one point on the edge and "rolling" it in position ( I hold the diaphragm with two fingers at opposite points on the edge, applying some pressure to squeeze it into a downward curved shape) towards the opposite point, thus pushing the oil gently out of the way as the diaphragm makes contact with the oil and the edge of the shock body, but it still traps air under it sometimes and it's very messy and a lot of oil is wasted; B) it can move and suck some air when you put the cap on - this is because most caps are a very close fit or even smaller than the diaphragm circumference - here I first put the shock top plastic on top of the diaphragm, and press it gently to secure the diaphragm in place, then come with the top collar over the top, remove my finger just to position the collar concentric but still holding it with two fingers, and push it down only AFTER I have my finger back on the plastic top pressing down firmly. I screw the cap very gently counterclockwise until I find the thread end and then clockwise making sure I keep it square so I don't cross thread - this would move the diaphragm because the collar cocks on the body. Keep your finger pressing down on the plastic top firmly until the collar is screwed on completely. This will push the piston out all the way, because excess oil can't go anywhere (some will still leak past the collar until it's tight). Now crack open the bottom collar to allow oil to come out, push the piston in to desired rebound and do up the collar.

Done.

It's a bit finnicky but it works 9 out of 10 times.

If there's still some air in, I turn the shock upside down, undo the bottom cap, take it off, take the o-rings(s) out and push the piston in and out gently, allowing the air to collect at the top, and then fill the o-ring seat volume with oil and pump the shock gently a few more times, until I see no more bubbles coming up. Keep topping up as needed, and when happy, top up again, put the o-rings in without draining the oil out first, just push the rings home, nevermind the oil mess leaking out, put the bottom collar back on, set rebound and then tighten the collar and you should have an air free shock.

I hate doing shocks, but they last me a long time, and I don't need to change oil for setup purposes now that I have collected quite a few sets of shocks over my time in the hobby and can afford to have a few oil weights/piston combos ready to go. Kinda annoying when your manufacturer(s) change the shocks and springs and they no longer fit older gear.


I wouldn't look at camber first, read again my previous post. Camber is a compromising setting - you will not have the same roll in all corners, or in the same corner on each lap, nor will it improve your grip in a straight line, hence you are giving away grip somewhere (or possibly everywhere).

Look at rear squat, front droop in this order.