There's a diagram on the first page of this thread that I've found pretty useful. Rather than just memorize dot configurations, it helps to have a conceptual understanding of what is going on. In your case, the anti-squat refers to the angle of the rear arm as it's placed up or down. C block is the anti-squat, so you can make height adjustments on that, and on the D block (which is the toe). So you can raise the C block for more anti-squat, and lower the D for even more. Center dot on aluminum C is 2 degrees. One dot will make a one-degree adjustment, 2 dots will change it in .5 degree increments. You can refer to the diagram for all of the configurations. The anti-squat diagram will show all the angles you can make relative to the D block (all of those numbers in the box are anti-squat only). So just up-and-down adjustments on both the C and D block for anti-squat. Toe works the same way, the only difference is you're thinking about the angle of the hinge pin as it changes left and right (or inward and outward). You can change toe on both on C and D blocks. Center dot on D block is 3 degrees. Refer to the C and D blocks in the manual. The C block was lowered, but so was the D, both by one degrees, so the anti-squat stayed the same. Toe was changed one dot, or one degree inward on the D block. No change left or right was made on the C. Try to picture what the hinge pins shifting inward would do rather than memorize the dots (it would decrease the toe).
Going back to the anti-squat and the stock setup. You could raise both the C and D block one dot, or one degree and still keep 3 degrees. But this would achieve HRC, which stand for higher roll center (I believe--I don't completely understand the roll centers). The stock setup lowered both C and D blocks, which lowered the roll center.
Last edited by Stanford55; 11-13-2016 at 04:02 PM.