Originally Posted by
phatboislim
i was told something pretty key that actually worked excellent for me. i was told to gear the motor to the speed that you want and then crank the timing down to get the temps down to what i want. it worked well for me
I can kinda go with that...
My theory is, if I'm running 1/12 for instance, and I'm at a 94mm RO and my temps are 110*F I know I'm not getting everything out of the motor. I'll bump the timing up 1 line and see where it takes me (providing I'm not over timing the rotor I chose to run). It also works in reverse, if temps are 170's I drop 1 line. Swinging timing up and down will have a much more dramatic effect on motor temps.... BUT....
The real key though are the lap times. There have been many instances where I come off at 150*F+ and I'm only fading .3, so there's no reason to change anything
So... The moral of the story is not to base the motors performance only off of temps, top 5 laps and fade will tell the real story
Another tidbit of info that I spoke about... lol... Over timing the rotor you choose... For most applications we run stronger rotors now. With 1/12 being a lower voltage source you can't get away with higher timing and be efficient (on very high bite tracks with a 4 line). The most timing you'll want is 40* on a motolyser. Most of the time you'll be 36 to 38* on a motolyser. If you run a 2 line rotor you can get away with higher timing without killing the efficiency.
It's a crazy game to play with the different strength rotors, but general guidelines are stronger rotors = less timing and more gear, weaker rotors = higher timing and lower gear.