It's a great car and well worth the money.
Mouse squeal shocks? I've heard of a few people assembling them with too many o rings or the guides in the wrong orientation. I did have one shock that seemed tighter in the bore as it seemed to have uneven coating. It freed up after 1 race meet and was as smooth as the others. Potentially there are burrs on your piston. I use green slime in the seals. Off road ones require careful filing. Contact your place of purchase for their recommendations and o-rings.
Some manufacturers of Spurs are thicker. I personally coat the inner and outer spur bearing with a very thin film of Loctite.
I either use a correct shim or sand the face of the spur axle so there is no or less than .1 side play. I adjust and check using this method until there is no bearing side load.
For any manufacturer It's better to be on the slightly sloppy side than run loaded bearings. VBC can't account for what brand of spur customers wish to use.
My spur spins very freely with no slop whatsoever.
The new ball cup plastics wear quickly. I Replace mine with D07 ones when required.
I've replaced my alloy rear driveshafts with steel ones as my alloy ones wore a groove against the pin in open class. I possibly didn't have them lubed enough.
I damaged about 4-5 diffs before switching to Much more diff oil and haven't had an issue since. 2 Outdrives have spread open but this is possibly due to the worn alloy driveshaft binding and mashing the throttle in open.
The plastic hunge pin inserts are way too weak but I've bent far fewer hinge pins. I sometimes run the d07 P00 front and e25 solid alloy blocks.
I've heard of some carbon chassis being tweaked out of the box. Possibly can happen with the top deck.
I've seen this from most manufacturers. Same as a real car. They can't supply everything perfect all the time regardless what QC measures they take.
Just contact your dealer and let them know you have x y z problems out of the box. I'm sure they'll rectify it.
I've seen lots of friends ream XRay and yoke arms.
The D08 only requires reaming of the outer arm hinge pin holes. The inners rotate inside the ball bushes with less flex stiction and slop than an xray type system.
There is slight slop to the sway bar ball cups. I paid $3 for some Xray or arc ones... Others have used o-rings. My car did exactly the same lap times on high grip and low grip tracks with the kit cups though.
Inner camber link? Did you need it to handle like the Manly ferry?
Never heard of anyone anywhere getting much response and grip from loooong links. It's a lightening hole
My D08 was $200 cheaper than a XRAY T4. It's a shame you've had such a negative experience.
I've had D06 D07 and now D08. They've included features and "upgrades" traditionally not offered by Yokomo and XRAY. It's high quality and exceptional value for money.