Originally Posted by
tonyv2382
Actually I do have a problem with a hole that is useless because based on MY base bench set up that I have used with my other cars on my track that hole would've been ideal so yes, if it's there Id like to use it, other wise it's ridiculous.
The top deck did not meet the bulk heads flush that sir I'm not making up, the shocks, come on, you build 'em up, and I built them repeatedly even using Pickerings method from YouTube, and all I got was a squeaky mouse sound in my shocks. No Bueno.
The spur assembly was the part of the build I spent most time on. I am a very detail oriented person in all things, and this was the biggest let down. I felt there was too much side to side play, and I also felt like the shaft that held it all together was smaller in diameter than the bearings internal diameter. Which makes for one sloppy spur assembly. It firmed up with belts and all installed but in my experience this is a Murphys Law thing. The PetitRC build of the D08 also suggests shimming the assembly to remove some play. I did so but I felt that all that did was prevent the spur from spinning as free as it did prior to shimming. All this will eventually do is build heat and lead to bearing failure, or a stripped gear. Maybe no one has experienced a failure, maybe they have, but I will not own a car where this is even a possibility.
Reaming out arms is a regular occurrence in xrays and other kits? I haven't built any current T4s but I have built my fair share of offroad Xrays and never had to ream anything. l haven't EVER reamed out a suspension component on any kit that I've ever owned as they were all free moving out of the box. And IMHO you can never ream it out perfectly which is a sure fire way to get slop before you even have the kit togeher. Here, I'll provide you with an example of a properly built arm suspension system below (Mi6)....
And yes just installing those pills in the suspensions straps, I Felt like the plastic was going to break on install. I'm sorry but to all who want a good honest review and opinion, buy something else. I only give things one shot. No matter how much things may improve in the future, VBC will never receive another dollar from me. And I spent a lot on the kit, hop ups and spares. Any product that's been made that has let me down I close the door and never look back as I can never fully trust investing my hard earned money in that direction ever again. I have had a handful of bad experiences like this and I always felt that giving an honest, direct, review of my experiences can help people save their pennies for something that's worth it.
This industry, as well as others, are fraught with people that are either compensated for their positive reviews or have something to gain by putting out false impressions of products. I have read so many reviews on several cars online and they are all positive. How in the world can that be? I believe in the approach that some of the top gear presenters in the UK took by putting out all the faults and being very blunt about a product. When you do a review you have to be objective and be honest otherwise your integrity and credibility as a human being in all matters means nothing when you do everything for personal gain.. What happens in this case is people eventually catch on and realize all the BS and eventually they will look back to the person who put out this 100% positive review and ask them selves why they listened in the first place. There is one presenter on YouTube that is pretty honest with his RC car reviews I'm sure you all know who he is and that's probably one of the only people in this industry that has been able to put out Objective views at least that I have seen.
It's a great car and well worth the money.
Mouse squeal shocks? I've heard of a few people assembling them with too many o rings or the guides in the wrong orientation. I did have one shock that seemed tighter in the bore as it seemed to have uneven coating. It freed up after 1 race meet and was as smooth as the others. Potentially there are burrs on your piston. I use green slime in the seals. Off road ones require careful filing. Contact your place of purchase for their recommendations and o-rings.
Some manufacturers of Spurs are thicker. I personally coat the inner and outer spur bearing with a very thin film of Loctite.
I either use a correct shim or sand the face of the spur axle so there is no or less than .1 side play. I adjust and check using this method until there is no bearing side load.
For any manufacturer It's better to be on the slightly sloppy side than run loaded bearings. VBC can't account for what brand of spur customers wish to use.
My spur spins very freely with no slop whatsoever.
The new ball cup plastics wear quickly. I Replace mine with D07 ones when required.
I've replaced my alloy rear driveshafts with steel ones as my alloy ones wore a groove against the pin in open class. I possibly didn't have them lubed enough.
I damaged about 4-5 diffs before switching to Much more diff oil and haven't had an issue since. 2 Outdrives have spread open but this is possibly due to the worn alloy driveshaft binding and mashing the throttle in open.
The plastic hunge pin inserts are way too weak but I've bent far fewer hinge pins. I sometimes run the d07 P00 front and e25 solid alloy blocks.
I've heard of some carbon chassis being tweaked out of the box. Possibly can happen with the top deck.
I've seen this from most manufacturers. Same as a real car. They can't supply everything perfect all the time regardless what QC measures they take.
Just contact your dealer and let them know you have x y z problems out of the box. I'm sure they'll rectify it.
I've seen lots of friends ream XRay and yoke arms.
The D08 only requires reaming of the outer arm hinge pin holes. The inners rotate inside the ball bushes with less flex stiction and slop than an xray type system.
There is slight slop to the sway bar ball cups. I paid $3 for some Xray or arc ones... Others have used o-rings. My car did exactly the same lap times on high grip and low grip tracks with the kit cups though.
Inner camber link? Did you need it to handle like the Manly ferry?
Never heard of anyone anywhere getting much response and grip from loooong links. It's a lightening hole
My D08 was $200 cheaper than a XRAY T4. It's a shame you've had such a negative experience.
I've had D06 D07 and now D08. They've included features and "upgrades" traditionally not offered by Yokomo and XRAY. It's high quality and exceptional value for money.