Originally posted by SCML
I'm a little confused by the question and responses.
It seems to me that CAPs are used on the reciever when you have too much draw from the servo and/or accessories attached, and the esc is not providing enough power to keep the correct voltage to the electronics, causing glitches. Isn't that what new92 is trying to solve?
To me, this isn't direct battery voltage, rather what the ESC provides through the interface cable, and ESCs have different ratings on what they supply to the reciever, unlike what they accept from the battery.
Caps on the ESC smooth out power fluctuations directly from the battery, which could also cause the same symptom, but not to the same degree. I'm under the impression they are most used to provide intial punch, with a secondary use to avoid major voltage drops.
I know some of the Spektrum users solved issues with the reciever/servo drawing too much power (causing resets), by adding a CAP hooked up to the reciever itself. I've also seen others use the same setup with normal recievers to avoid glitching.
So, if you have glitching issues, wouldn't it be best to hook the CAP straight to the reciever, thus smoothing out the delivery of the interface voltage?
Mike
Exactly what i was thinking. I currently have the cap wired to the receiver by way of soldered to a servo lead then plugged into the batt slot on the receiver. I have not been back to the track due to weather and stuff but have been up and down the driveway a few times. It SEEMED to cut out the glitch I would get when rocking the wheels back and forth with the radio. Which I suspected was the servo pulling too much juice. The only ties it would glitch the one time I raced it on the track with the new servo was coming off of a sweeper onto the back straight and off of a hairpin onto the front straight. About the only 2 spots on the track where you are wide open throttle. Well, actually I thought I heard the motor "cutting in and out" a couple of times down the back straight.
I previously could set the car on the ground and rock the wheels back and forth really fast and after a few seconds the car would jump forward about 6 inches. Like justa quick quarter throttle stab. Then I kept watching and it seemed like instead of throttle sometimes the brake light on the ESC would come on. Since I put the cap on the jump has happened ONCE. I then ran a few quick bursts up and down the driveway and it went away when I would rock the wheels again. Does the cap need an initial "jolt" to fill up with energy? If so, then that might explain the one time glitch that goes away after supplying some power.
I am going to shorten the wires from the cap to the receiver as short as possible and see how that works. I just left them long till I could figure out if it worked and then decide on a mounting spot.
Thanks for all of the tips and keep the ideas coming if you think of anything else.