Originally Posted by
Doughty
Hi Cain,
the RR hanger uses the narrowest inserts and has stock 3 degrees inboard toe-in.
Its not really designed to tune toe-in from here, that part of the car is actually designed for future geometry options, this is why its not explained in the instruction manual.
having said that, you could use an insert that is less narrow which would give a little more inboard toe-in, however it might make the car a little too wide at the rear depending what rear wheels/tires you are using. but I would not recommend going any more than 1 step wider on the RR hanger insert than stock.
for example stock is "dash dot" with the dash inside.
you could use "dash" insert with the dash inside which would add some inboard toe-in. I calculate it would be approx 3.7 degrees each side.
Adjusting the toe-in in this area of the car isn't a go-to setup option but it is possible. but there could be negatives to doing this as its using the car outside of its intended design.
I hope that helps.
Thanks! Totally missed this post earlier lol. Darn, was hoping that would be what it was for as when you run the alloy rear hubs they can be a real pain to get the insert to come out. I guess If I try more toe, I'll run some standard hubs.
Got further along in my build and I had a dilemma on how to mount the electronics. With the Shorty Setup and using the Hobbywing V3.1 Super Stock ESC I couldn't find an easy way to locate the capacitor on the chassis so I decided to try something:
Basically, I used that middle piece (don't know what to call it) as a mount for the capacitor. so word of advice, if you plan to get this vehicle and run in this layout, have SMALL electronics or something that can allow you to run the capacitor out of the way. Also, a short but flexible sensor wire can work wonders. I used some TQ Wire.
So this is where she is at, the shock tower I am waiting on should be here tomorrow.
All in all so far so good, crossing fingers they have practice sunday!