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Old 02-11-2016, 07:04 AM
  #18300  
DennisNyholm
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Originally Posted by racer1812
That video is a pretty good example...That said..

Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??

From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.

There is some trial and error involved..

If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.

Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.

Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
Did this last night and it was easy but time consuming. Diff felt butter smooth afterward.

The only thing I was worried about was the heat build up. I know I wasn't running it fast (set my throttle trim on my transmitter about 9 clicks up), but I made sure to give it a few MI uses between cycles to cool down. Melted a diff in my rc12l years ago because it was too loose and I was too young to understand what was happening.
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