Originally Posted by
phatboislim
OHHHH tire slide...which refers to the reason of gluing the sidewalls and having less traction aka dont let the rears sit so long w/ traction compound
That makes a ton of sense. I appreciation the clarification of that man.
Now...with droop on the front springs...i basically have 0 preload on the front springs, so basically i have no droop. I guess I should say this...i have my front king pins setup to where i push up on the king pin via wheel hub there is no movement. But you're saying if i have a tad bit of droop on the front it will help w/ me gaining steering as well?
No. 0 preload on front springs = you have droop (you are running softest .45 12th springs). Chassis with tires, electronics and 1s lipo battery will weight about 830g. Front end will get 35-45% of this weight and it will compress front springs. I don't remember, but 0 preload with .45 will have 1+ mm of droop.
This is an excerpt from 1:12 scale gen x manual:
Springs: The Gen X comes with .50mm front springs. Going to a softer front spring will allow the car to roll
more, which will yield more overall steering, but will be most noticeable on corner entry. Using a stiffer spring will
do just the opposite. The car will stay flatter and transition less weight side to side giving you less total steering,
but again most noticeably on corner entry. Preloading the front springs should not be used as a tuning aid (if you
need the front end to be stiffer, use a stiffer spring), but rather just to correct ride height. As an example,
sometimes when using soft front springs, you will notice that the car sits down into the spring (or “sags”), creating
a gap between the spring and lower pivot ball, causing loss of ride height. You do want the car to “set” into the
spring slightly (never bound tight at the top of its travel). But if this gap is more than .010” (or .25mm), you can
preload the spring slightly (either by turning the king pins in farther, or adding a thin shim) to get the ride height
back up.