Nah... burning out a brushed motor doesn't take much. One build or material flaw and they're gone. Same with the stock steering servos. I burned up my steering servo in my BL Sc4.18 in less than a day. Poof, all the magic smoke gone. If you've got your steering dual rate set wide open, it's easy to be over zealous and hold the servo at end point too long. Endpoint on a stock servo is further than end of travel for the steering system, so they bind, causing strain on the servo. Set your dual rate back until you don't hear the servo strain or see the chassis flex (especially with a metal gear servo!) That will make a stock dromida servo last a bit longer. But I recommend the tower pro MG90S metal gear servo. They aren't water proof, and need a slight case trimming with the side steer brushed cars, and on the brushless front steer cars you can't run the servo saver, but with metal gears you won't need it unless you launch your car off a ramp at a brick wall at an angle and hit the wall tire first, and the tire, axle, knuckle or something else is liable to break before the metal gear servo does. For $4 a copy shipped off ebay, they're a great investment, verses $10 for a dromida servo plus shipping. and with some plasti-dip or liquid electric tape they can be made waterproof as well.

I can't post links, but PM me and I'll get you the sellers info from ebay. $16 shipped for 4 tower pro metal gear MG90S servos with an assortment of pitman/control arms. You'll need to drill the arm for the ball stud, but that's no big deal, and most likely you'll only need to do it once.If you convert to the front steer brushless, and use the MG90S servo, you'll notice that the link between the pitman arm and belcrank is at a bit of an extreme angle. Put a few small washers between the ball stud and the pitman arm before you thread it into the arm, it will reduce this angle, and reduce drag and strain and also give you about another 3-4* of left steering travel

Same with a stock 370 or the 22t "speed secret" motor if you don't run a heat sink I suggest the purple one... everyone runs dromida blue, be different lol. It doesn't take more that two back to back hard runs and a 370 motor is way above safe temps, even with a heat sink. If you upgrade, skip the 22t motor (a waste of money, go brushless) spend the money on either the dromida brushless kit, or the castle mamba micro x esc and 0808 5300kv upgrade. The dromida kit is $100+shipping (wal-mart has them for $93 sometimes less), the castle combo is $102+shipping. With the dromida kit, you get an esc, the 5300kv brushless motor, a reciever and the updated front steering conversion and a both a 13 and a 12 tooth pinion gear so you can play with gearing.

The castle combo gives you the esc and motor, but you need to purchase a new reciever separately. The mamba ESC battery input wires come bare, soooo. You're also going to need to buy a battery connector for the losi mini t (I have a source, pm for that as well lol) and a field programmer so you can set your braking, voltage cutoff, throttle punch, motor timing, drag braking, motor type etc... gets real spendy real fast. Almost $170 all in!

Also, the 0808 castle motor does not have a flat on the shaft, and grinding one voids your warranty, and WILL cause the shaft to break because they're hardened. You're going to need to use green loctite to secure the pinion in place, which i don't trust much, even tho loctite is good stuff with the set screw, but with no flat for the set screw to sit on, I don't trust it. Just a personal thing I've learned from years of building stuff from scratch and breaking it lol.

Personally, I use the dromida brushless motor, (I was spoiled, my car was given to me as a wedding party gift and came as a BL car...) haven't had ANY trouble with a 1600mah nimh high output 7.2v high output pack. The hottest I've gotten my brushless dromida motor was 168* which is right in the sweet spot for a brushless motor. Haven't used a lipo pack, so I can't comment, but never read about anyone burning one up unless they over run (too many back to back runs without time to cool) over cell or over amp one without re-timing the motor or using a cooling fan.

If you do go to the castle 0808, do invest in the mamba micro x esc and get the 5300kv motor, they hAve a discount price I mention above. It's a perfect fit both in terms of run time and torque curve/power for the dromida 1:18 chassis weight. It's also lipo and nimh compatible, tho you'll get the most out of it with a lipo battery. Down side is, lipo batteries are a bit more, tho I've got sources for less expensive compatible lipo batteries and you need a balancing charger as well. You can get a higher mah nimh 6c 7.2v pack that gives you a bit more punch and run time, but nothing like a lipo. Remember to order the programmer and a reciever compatible with the dromida radio as well and a battery connector.

I have a source for a duratrax 6c 7.2v 1600mah nimh battery pack with the losi mini t connector already on it that's cheaper than the 1300mah dromida pack. Lots more punch and run time. I can't post links yet cause I'm a newbie, but again, pm me and I'll be glad to get you info.

Also, if you have a fast charger with banana clips, I have a source for the female losi mini t connector with banana clip ends for those chargers as well. Hard to find when dromida won't tell you what their "proprietary" battery connectors are

Hope all this wandering drivel makes sense. I tend to go off on tangents when I talk, and I type like I talk lol