Originally Posted by
gte024h
So I decided to take the long route and upgrade my 2.0 to the 3.0 by ordering the parts listed in the first post. The front A-arms came with the shoulder screws. It looks like the trailing screw is not sized appropriately for the a-arm mold. At first I thought maybe the a-arm package was supposed to include shorter ones, but then I went through my 22-4 spare parts and found a set of the shoulder screws listed in the conversion parts list and they are the same length. Check out the attached pictures.
I cracked one of the caster blocks by not noticing this as I tightened the screws. Just a warning that the trailing shoulder screw should not be tightened all the way down.
Those king pin screws don't need to be tightened down super tight. When they feel snugs, the shoulder has 'stopped' on the caster block. In the photo, you can see how the screw was tightened enough to indent the plastic with the shoulder of the screws.
On the front of the block, there is actually a counter bore so the shoulder of the screw can go into the caster block some for wheel clearance, etc.
Originally Posted by
MrLean
Anyone know this answer?
There is nothing designed in to change the height of the battery strap. Ultimately, you want to run the highest capacity battery as you can at minimum weight, since a larger capacity battery will improve your voltage throughout a run. Since the 3.0 is pretty light, it should be VERY easy to get under minimum with a standard size shorty pack, and if I was going to race stock... I would try to run a brick pack as close to minimum weight as possible.
Originally Posted by
BIGTIME
What mod motors are the best. Looking to get an 8.5 but have no clue on what to run.... Please help I just picked up a 3.0 yesterday.
I really like the Orion motors, I don't think you can get better although they do cost a little more. I'd probably get a 7.5T myself.