R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
View Single Post
Old 11-25-2015, 03:11 PM
  #3511  
dynamiteracer
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 344
Default

Originally Posted by Kaputttroniker
thank you very much for your answer dynamiteracer. I used a pair of pliers and did exactly as you told me. I saw Adam Drake do it on youtube. I did that at the beginning of the season about 10 times, after each practice. As soon as I returned on the track, they were completely tight again (couldnīt even move them by hand). I ended up cutting dents in them with the sharp middle part of the pliers. That finally helped. For the front hinge pins I had to remove a big chunk of the chassis.

Iīll will remove front and rear clip completely when I want to change the diff oil next time.

What would you suggest for set up to make the car feel as numb as possible on astro turf besides heavy sway bars?
I initially wanted to just go back to the out of the box settings since the rod ends are finally moving freely now. But Iīd rather have a good starting set up for astro turf. That would mean, that I have to get new machined pistons, but which ones should I get and what shock fluid? What diff oils?

So far I am running 3000, 7000, 2000, which might be ridiculous, but at least it seems to take the turns a little better. I found out that toe in or toe out makes a huge difference as well.

Another thing I donīt get and other drivers have noticed on my kit as well: The further I push the car down to the ground in the front, the harder it gets to do so. On the rear I donīt have the same problem. I already made the holes wider in the front suspension arms and clean them regularly. Doesnīt help much.

I wished I could start over with a brand new kit, but I lost trust it would be any better. Did they fix these problems and upgraded the kit? In Germany we say, if a product is usually good, but the specific one you got doesnīt do what itīs supposed to do, it was produced on a Monday ; ) That might be the case as well.
We like to run the diffs at 5000, 10000, and 3000 on higher traction tracks. I know here in the states they have fixed the rod ends with updated ones but it is hard to tell if it is new stock or old just by looking. The rod ends do need squeezed a couple times after running to accomplish the desired feel. Stock pistons work well on our indoor tracks with 32.5 front and 30 rear oils. If traction is good use less rear toe so that the car rolls the center of the corner well then adjust rear antiaquat for the desired feel while on power out of the turn.
dynamiteracer is offline