Originally Posted by
Kaputttroniker
Hi there,
I just finished my first season of rc car racing and each time I am learning a new thing about how to set up a car, new questions come to my mind. Iīve got the TLR 8ight e 3.0 kit. My home track here in Germany is a astroturf track and most of the tracks I had been racing on so far were astro turf tracks as well. Hardly anybody is racing a tlr car here and can help me out with set up tips. I love the car, I never broke anything through out the entire season, but to be honest: thatīs about the only thing I love about it.
When I got the car, the rod ends (front and back) were hardly moving at all. Until I figured out that this was the main problem of my kit and how to solve it, I had changed everything about the stock setup that can be changed, because it seemed like the shocks were hardly moving at all. I even drilled wider holes in the machined pistons to make the shocks work at least a little.
Maybe I just got a bad kit (the front hinge pin would not fit the chassi until I cut away parts of the chassis).
The car acts totally unpretictable in about any turn. It even seems to change completly from one day to another, although I havenīt changed anything. I canīt even tell if I have too much oversteering or understeering in certain corners, because both seems to be the fact.
I am not using a sensored engine, so maybe this might be a main problem as well.
At this point, I am willing to sell the kit. Somebody who likes bashing might be totally fine and happy with it. I am not even sure if it is worth it to invest the money to buy new machined pistons, shock- and diff oils to restore the standard set up. To change the front and back diff oil is no fun thing either, since itīs complicated to take the diffs out of the kit.
I am not a bad driver. I have build a few kits when I was young and drove many rtr eight scale kits in the past three years before I went on a race track.
So whatīs the problem? I am not having too much time for testing and practice (every other weekend), did I just get a bad kit and messed up too much with the set up...
I know there was some tight fitting rod ends on some of the kits and it was best to assemble the balls into the ends and then squeeze around the outside in a couple directions with a pair of pliers to loosen them up. The front and rear hinge pins also fit tight into the arms and require some attention to get working free. We also found the sway bar links to be a little tight again do as I instructed with the rod ends to free them up also. Once everything is free assemble one part at a time insuring fee movement of each assembly. With everything installed before mounting the shock assemblies on the car check to make sure that the arms will fall freely downward after being lifted upwards. These steps will dramatically improve the handling of the car. I have always found to get to the front and rear diffs it is best just to remove the front and rear clips as assemblies and then remove the diffs, it is pretty quick with a screw gun and a couple times of practice. Remember on a high bite track such as you run on you most likely will need to run the heavier sway bars to keep the car from unloading all at once during the turns. Make the car feel as numb as possible and work your was back to a more aggressive feel little by little. I hope this helps. The car is a really good race car, it just takes getting to know it and learning what it likes.