Originally Posted by
axle182
Sakadachi, Granpa tried to explain things to you previously, I will also, hopefully you will understand this time. This is a public forum, where ideas are freely discussed. Your post is up for scrutiny and so is all of mine. This is also predominantly a racing forum, and the original poster, CSeils, is asking a racing question. Your idea "I run full droop" WILL NOT WORK for CSeils situation (carpet with S grips) therefore your post was incorrect, and it therefore required my follow up fact that CSeil's car will be on its roof for most of the race, should he follow your suggestion. My comment was neither rude, nor mean, but yes I am a bastard.
If CSeils was looking for setup changes on a small indoor track, and his aim was pure 'fun' driving and not competitive racing(I highly doubt he would bother asking setup advice if he was indeed driving for fun), then I wouldn't comment on something I know nothing about, and your comment would be very welcome. But this is not the case in this situation. I hope in the future, you can be more cautious about your advice, and whether it fits the situation for the person asking the questions. HTH
No hard feelings axle! I was only kidding.
And granpa has is own set off issues I could not understand, but he is also good to go.
But no, droop itself will not put a car onto its roof. If you were talking about making the suspension stiffer to force this weight over his outer grippy front tire, it would make him traction roll. We're talking droop on the inside wheel extending or not. Inner wheel will travel along with the turn unless it lifts off the ground and you get that wild sharp angle turn which may be causing his rear to step out. I hate that unnatural stiff diff side effect so this is another reason why I use full droop length on stiffer diff setting so that the inside wheel does not leave the ground mid-turn.
I do admit I didn't read his post very well and didn't understand his situation. But I do know about the characteristics of these cars considering my line up, I know how they differ too. I've spent countless hours just setting them up and I'm still not done with my M-Four.
So my comment about agreeing to add rear neg camber and toe-in still stands. And I too agree with KAV to do this one step at a time. Do the neg camber first, then add toe-in later if it doesn't suffice. Honestly though, adding rear toe-in might be a faster cure if he has the parts on hand.