Thanks jflow - yep I need to drive as much as I can reasonably fit in. In fact had a couple of drives on the weekend. It was bloody fun. Getting better.
I'm interested to hear your thoughts In regards to radio settings. I don't even know where to start. I've got my sub trim sorted, steering travel. I don't know what I would play with. Steering/dual rates, expos, throttle travel where do I start. Is it really a personal preference do you think or are there good general rules applying to most. Opinions requested! Out of interest do the pros use expo on throttle and/or steering.
I'm into acquiring knowledge from those who are in the know. And your advice lines up with what I've gathered so far.
Here's what I've got in order to experiment and importance.
1) tyres - crucial. I've got a basic range of tyres to play with and a basic understanding of what to use when. Not interested in tyre sauce or the like. Seems excessive & hope somehow it can be stopped.
2) weight distribution - I'll test different battery positions and ballast to see how it effects how the car drives.
3) springs - to test as well.
4) shock oils / Pistons - this one seems a bit daunting. I'm not the best at building shocks. Experimenting with these may feel like hard work.
5) car geometry - I have a few setups I stick to for different conditions. From Ray Munday -
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/australian-racing/1276404d1425727809-ask-ray-munday-jconcepts-novak-associated-aussie-support-thread-b5m-setups-ray-munday-201503.pdf
The rest is a ways down the track. ESC settings, wings, etc. The practice advice from tmail55 looks great and thanks to wittyname, mudcat, slalom1, ericw, Jbrow and my old mate socket.
I will read tuning with camber links 1 day. However, after reading the following post by Ray Munday (top 40 2wd in worlds last week, top 50 4wd also works in 1:1 scale car industry). I'll test Fredswains method later and see if I can get something out of it. Due to Ray's advice it moves down the list though.
Extract from
ask Ray Munday forum
"Im familiar with the 'tuning with camber links' thread by Fredswain. The theory of balancing sprung natural frequency front and rear is good for relatively underdamped vehicles (such as road vehicles) where you want the front and rear to move in phase with each other. (you actually tune the rear to be about 10% faster than the front, so that it 'catches up' to the front over bumps as the front always hits bumps first). However our rc cars are very heavily damped so I dont think it is the most appropriate method.
What is much more important with spring balancing is to get the weight transfer correct during cornering. The springs control how much weight transfer is taken from front to rear (stiffer at front gives understeer, stiffer at rear gives oversteer). Softer springs promote slower weight transfer but larger roll movement. You are trying to balance the rate of weight transfer with the corner itself so the car responds correctly through the corners.
The movement of the car over bumps is controlled much more strongly by the level of damping you have. Damping is especially important over the larger jumps to control bottoming.
On the setup sheets I put together, I have highlighted the adjustments I have found most sensitive on that particular car.
I hope that this answers your questions. Its a very dfficult subject to describe briefly, but please keep asking away. My apologies for the slow reply.
Ray"