Originally Posted by
Drew Manzella
It passes the coin trick fine - but the coin trick is never anything I have put a ton of stock into beyond a quick and dirty basic check. I use scales and levels to check for chassis tweak (as well as straight edges and such).
It is possible it is an arm but not likely springs or any chassis tweak. Electronics layout is pretty much "what it is" since there isn't a ton of room for playing. This could be the issue but the heavy side of the car is the side with the electronics.
Side springs - maybe. When my cross is where I want it and the level says the rear pod is flat the left spring has a good bit more preload on it than the right. Probably in the order of 2 turns.
Tires - possible. On my list was to true up a set of tires I won't race for doing setups. Just haven't done it yet and way cheaper than setup wheels.
Originally Posted by
EDWARD2003
I don't even bother with scales on a 1/12th scale. I just balance the chassis using pins, make sure the side springs are set, make sure the lower arms are equal heights L/R, pod is square and tweak free, tires are trued equally, and then once is all said and done I do the coin trick.
Scales. I've tried it. I didn't like it.
Balancing a 12th scale car...
Remember, that solid rear axle and it's center chassis pivot should not be taken into account as a whole
Unless your rear pod is balanced (pita if you're switch motor brands often)
If using balance pins it's best to leave the pod off
Cross weights on a 12th scale chassis, not sure if that's something to be concerned about so long as your electronics are mounted as they should be, to balance the main chassis
If one side of the chassis is higher than the other, it is most often caused by a tweak in the front end, smashed spring, etc
The coin trick imo, won't pick that up, and may have you chasing the wrong area of issue