Originally Posted by
Jvcaniggia
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohn929
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.
I got a few tbone ones that i got an yea i use them they work good an when i did not have them my tail is pretty ate up with just street running
So, I will try the Tbone or APE. Which is easier to install? Total newbie here. Last real rc car was an 88 JrX2. Just getting into it now with my 7yr old son.
This thread has been very valuable. And thank you all for the advice and previous posts. I will try to pass along any newbie knowledge to others in more beginner forums.
- Skidplate vs APE Skid Plates - Which is better functioning/easier install
Any advice appreciated and will be noted.
Thanks!
At Sumo Racing we carry both aluminum and stainless skids, just an option I saw you mentioned earlier. Both pairs are 1.4mm thick to keep drag to a minimum. Depending on your plans (bashing vs racing or both) and race surface would help to determine which one to choose. I sell them as a set, both front and back. The stainless last for a long time and can take the abuse. If you are strictly racing and are worried about weight, the aluminum's would be up your alley. Just suggestions is all. For installation, just remove the 4 main diff mount screws and add the plate. Thanks, Terry.
Sumo Racing