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Old 06-18-2015 | 07:40 AM
  #80  
30Tooth
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Roll center height/couple and "slope" and go-faster stuff.

Had a brain storm last night...Here's a couple things I want to share with you:
- Some cars just have a tendency to roll more on one end than the other, most drivers just change spring or damping and end up with a ill driving car. They don't know what is causing the roll.

Weight transfer - which is only affected by CG height, the amount of force applied and vehicle track or wheelbase depending on what you want to calculate - is the most important dynamic in vehicle handling. You can't change weight transfer with springs, roll bars or roll center tuning! Only by altering CG height, widening or shortening the track (vehicle's track not the track itself) or wheelbase again depending if you are looking into side to side weight transfer or front to back and vice versa weigh transfer. Roll center tuning, springs, roll bars and suspension geometry change the rate the weight transfer happens.

With that said, to have a balanced car in roll resistance and ride resistance (which means the front and rear suspension works the same distance when under side to side and up-down forces respectively and not correlated) only through springs and roll bars masks another characteristic, roll couple. Example, a car with 50-50 weight bias has it's CG in the middle, which means both front and rear wheels are subject to the same weight transfer force when turning. If the springs are balanced regarding ride resistance but the suspension still dumps in turns, increasing front damping/roll bar thickness is not the solution. Imagine looking at the side of the car and a line connecting the two roll centers, if the line is tilted to one side it means that end will roll more and twist the other suspension, increasing tire load (imagine sitting in a one legged chair and tilting a bit to the front, if you keep both foots closer together in front of you, you have to exert greater force in the ground to not fall). Let that sink in, a bit confusing isn't it?
So, softening the rear roll stiffness increases front tire load and vice versa! If you change the front roll stiffness the effect is less profound because the CG height is lower in the front so the effect in the rear is lower! That's why it so important to have the rear RC and roll stiffness in the right place in the grand scheme of things. That's why the only thing my spreadsheet lacks is roll center height but with the information provided in this post you can tune by eye balling which end rolls more after balancing front and rear ride and roll resistance through the spreadsheet.

In the end, you will end up with a car that provides maximum consistent tire loading through the turns, where both ends will work together instead of fighting each other. Now, how much roll/ride resistance, RC height, weight and weight bias? That's up to available grip and track conditions.
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