Originally Posted by
monkeyracing
I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
Wouldn't that leave a gap though for more dust to get into your drive train?
I suppose you can tape the halves with e-tape to close.
I should check this screw torque too. After my recent M05 rebuild, I did notice the gearbox to be quite audible vs when new. Perhaps mine is binding the gears too, a little bit.
Originally Posted by
eR1c
got some practice racing in w/ my new M05 V2 conversion. WOW, -the new chassis does handle a lot nicer. The track was a low grip asphalt track, -so ran w/ Tamiya slicks up front and S-Grips on back ...wow, really handled like a dream. Tried both a shorty pack and longer/standard pack, I think I like the way the shorty pack felt better. -plus that gave me some weight savings so I could put extra weight where I wanted.
Sounds great, eR1c! Especially on lower grip track the V2 handles very well.
No more of the rear stepping out like the M05, huh?
However, with my recent brushless motor update? (upgrade?), my V2 has been a tad stubborn to drive as the torque is so immediate vs silver can.
I got the trigger down pretty much though, reading your guys' posts about not using any brake while driving. I changed my driving style a little bit and seems to work better with the brushless setup.
Originally Posted by
monkeyracing
Getting an accurate assessment from measuring might be a dead end, as the stock diff uses bearings and adapters that might alter available space. We're talking small fractions of mm here. I used a 0.3mm Teflon shim behind the diff and made a 0.3mm shim for the top screw.
I'm all about trying experiments so please keep us posted how this goes. Imho these m-chassis aren't very precisely molded so your approach of adding a little play might be better.