MotoGod is on point with lighter springs - this will cause the shoes to engage sooner "Lower RPM's" and cause the engine to work a little harder to spool up.
As long as you are not Wide open from idle and then off and back on - you can find a sweet spot between spinning your wheel and clutch engagement.
I too have had this problem and my remedy was to use a heavier Flywheel.. well now I use an adjustable weighted flywheel to help keep the engine from spooling up so quickly.. Then of course tune the shoe engagement with the proper springs (Depending on track conditions / bite .. etc.)
I've been able to pick up full minute of drive time and reduce my engine temps over all. My idle is solid and my tires last much longer.
I few years back if someone was to suggest clutch tuning to the track I was like ..bahh speed wins races - Now I'm a total believer in clutch tuning!!
As far as ports and carb. reducers - that's another topic all together.
A steel flywheel will add more weight and some of them are even adjustable - meaning you can add more and or subtract weight.
Going up a tooth on your clutch bell could cause you to have to use more throttle and hence more fuel and then promote more on / off wide open throttling.. I would not add more teeth to the bell.. try tuning your clutch and finding that sweet spot.
Best advice is practice practice practice !!!!
My setup:
Losi 8 3.0
OS Spec II XZ-B Tuned
6.5mm Carb insert
M2C Adjustable Steel Clutch System w/ Medium Shoes
13t Losi Clutch Bell
48t Pinion
Last edited by offr0aden; 03-31-2015 at 09:51 AM.