Originally Posted by
CRCDUDE
The team guys have been testing the .3 parts for a while now. And they have already wont some really big races with them. The kit setup should be a great all around starting point for most drivers. There is not a need to have this part or that to get this truck on the track. Im guessing.. An aluminum servo horn with the spline you need it gonna be about it. Maybe a few tuning options as you get to different tracks or conditions as with the case of any other RC vehicle.
regarding the "kick" off of jumps.. It most certainly is caused by bottoming off the face of a jump. But if you look at whats really happening, it usually caused by the front wheels clearing the lip as the rear is rebounding. Several fixes can help
1. bandaid fix is to add a stiffer rear spring.
2. Go thicker rear oil..
3. Increase ride height
all these will work to some degree, but have a penalty somewhere along the way. Usually in a loss of rear grip or unbalanced setup
Instead of changing the setup, why not change yer driving ? Approach jumps that have a short face or are high speed in coast / off power ( not max speed either) and squeeze throttle while going off the face. I am not an RC master, but this has worked for me on 95% of the situations I needed it to. It sometimes takes a conscious effort to tell myself to "let off the gas" before a big jump but when done properly it works.
Just sayin
From the testing I am curious to see how durable the hingepin braces are in composite, but I may just buy (depending on how they are sold) an alloy one for the FF and one for the RR.
As for the options to fix nose down, etc I think what you are saying has validity, the problem is doing this in a manner that maintains similar speeds to the competition.
It kind of reminds me of what sc10 4x4 drivers would do to get around bigger 1/8 tracks. they would roll a double or triples versus other vehicles just taking them, eventually, you lose time because of this and if competition is close, it is a liability.
But again I believe the older vehicle could solve these issues with some tuning or the battery tray mod. I do wish this version did have the tray mod done, but that is why I held on to that part to use
As for stuff to keep from the old vehicle, other than pistons and additional sway bars, not thinking of too much else I am keeping / kept.
One thing I am gonna be curious about is if I can do the same kind of steering mod I did before to raise up the position of the servo horn to work with regular servo horns. I don't see any problem why what I have done won't, but curious non the less.