Originally Posted by
fredswain
Chassis: whichever you want. I'd pretty much universally recommend against the a standard Dimec chassis. If you want to go that route, get the Dimec20. I'm running the V1 aluminum chassis at the moment for high grip on a track where a 13.5T motor is more than enough.
Gearbox: V2 with longer outdrives. Gear diff for carpet or blue groove, ball diff anywhere else.
Rear suspension: V1 shocks and tower. V1 or V2 arms. I personally only run shocks in front of the arms. I don't like them behind. If you do, use V2 arms.
Front suspension: V2. For now although run what you've got. If you run V1 arms, you've got to run V1 shocks. If you've got V2 arms, you've got to run V2 shocks. The only difference in towers is that the V2 mount the shocks further back so you need to turn the shock bottoms around since they are offset. V2 oriented may result in seeing link hitting the springs though so if you run V2 front tower, use the Durango or AE offset ball cups on the outside steering link to help. If my suspicion is correct then my recommendation will be V2 front arms with V1 front shocks and a new, as yet to be made, shock tower.
Everything else is up to you.
Low to med grip, the Dimec +8 is preferred. The extra length and a bit more flex makes the car more forgiving and easier to drive. For high grip, its a toss up. You can go with the standard or the +8 aluminum. Then again Jorn did with almost all the EOS racers with a Mid-Motor +8 Aluminum chassis on carpet and TQ the 2wd buggy at the worlds with a mid motor +8.
My rear motor is basically a RTR with the v2 arms and shock towers. And I ran a whole season with the v2 front arms and v1 shocks. You just need to remove the rubber grommet at the bottom of the shock. I put the upgraded to composite gear diff in my v2 (as my V2 is mainly a high bite indoor car) and put the ball diff from my v2 in to my hybird RTR which I mainly run outdoors.