Originally Posted by
fyrstormer
I'm not defending the brand. I have no allegiance to the brand at all. I've run two of their engines and I have a couple spares of the one I still use. The main attraction for me is the engine costs $45, so if my girlfriend's nephews fry it, it's painless to replace it. I'm just speculating as to the reasons why they designed their engines the way they did.
Put a baby-sock over the heatsink if you want it to run hotter during break-in without leaning the fuel mixture too much. That's like the first thing anyone tells a nitro noob about running in cold weather, and it applies equally-well here. Does it fix the problem that their race engines are too tight out of the box? No, but if it helps the break-in process go more smoothly, then roll with it.
These need more than a baby sock, beer can holder, tin foil or anything else you might have.
I think between us we have run in literally hundreds and hundreds of engines, so "noob advice" doesn't really apply here.
If you got your hands on one of the newer (say) Champion engines, you would see exactly what we are talking about. It's hard to get across just how tight these engines are.
Why they make the tolerances so tight on these is anyone's guess - but the end result is customers don't want to go there twice. Which is a shame.
We have imported GO Engines since around 2008. Through all the generations of engines - Pro Series and early Gen 5, GXR 5.5 and GXII-5RHO we have never struck engines as tight as these latest batches.
If you have Rex's expertise and can hand lap the piston / sleeve set before run-in that's cool - but not everyone has the know how to do that safely.
It just seems extreme that you need to go to those lengths, when most other brands bed in nicely with no such issues.
Anyway, we are flogging a dead horse here. That's the way they are for whatever reason, and that's that.
That's also why you don't see them on our website any more.